The Emerald Coast July 23, 2007

Clear green water gives this north coast of Brittany its name. Near the vital port city of Saint Mâlo there is an ancient fortress called Fort La Latte. It dates to the beginning of the 100 years war in 1340 when the Duke of Brittany, allied to England, wanted to facilitate the English landing in their assault on France. Vessels that required the deepwater port of St. Mâlo could shelter in the bay under the protection of the Fort’s guns while awaiting the necessary high tide to access the port. The violent winds and currents swirling around the base of the cliff have prevented any successful attack from the sea.

There have been 20 films shot on this location, including the 1957 Kirk Douglas film the Vikings, Lancelot du Lac in 1970, and Ridicule in 1996. The climatic final scene of The Vikings featured Kirk Douglas fighting on the top of the donjon – where the daring mother of Emily the Rock Climber left the timid behind and in a driving rain braved the ripping wind to summit the tower up slight stairs set into the wall, gripping the rope rail with one hand. The other hand, of course, held the Nikon under the plastic rain poncho (merci beaucoup, Jacob and Farzanah!)









Since the fort is built on rock, there is no well: water is collected in a cistern. Another unusual feature is the small heating chamber whose fire brought the cannon balls to red hot, so that when fired at a ship’s rigging, they would set fire to the ship.

When the culture of coastal protection moved beyond the fortress, it fell into disrepair. In 1931 the family who owned it gathered their friends and made a commitment to restore the fortress as a historical landmark.


Just up the coast is the port city of Dinan, fortified battlements overlooking highways, ancient defensive towers cozied up to modern apartment buildings, and a massive cathedral dominating the seaside park. The throngs of tourists seem out of place in their 21st century garb. That contrast lies at the heart of the character of Brittany: a thriving modern culture set among the reminders of a richly accessible history.